Tag Archives | sewing

Sewing with Friedlander Lawn.

Friedlander Lawn Garments . Carolyn Friedlander

Sewing with Friedlander Lawn is an easy given. Lawn works really well for garments because of it’s fine-ness, softness and beautiful drape. Here are some things I’ve made (/been wearing constantly). Apologies in advance for throwing so many projects in to one post! I’m hoping it is handy to have many of the projects all in one place.

Friedlander Lawn Archer Popover . Carolyn Friedlander

Because of its weight and wearability, lawn is perfectly suited for blouses and tops, and the Archer by Grainline is one of my favorites. It’s awesome in just about every way. The directions are well-written, the pieces are well-drafted, and there is a ton of support for making it in terms of sew-alongs, etc. If you’ve never made a button-up (or even a garment), this is the way to go, because you’re in good hands with Grainline–they have your back!

Friedlander Lawn Archer Popover . Carolyn Friedlander

This is the popover variation, which does require a special pattern pack. The main difference between this one and the regular one is that the popover version doesn’t button all the way down. There’s also an alternate option for the sleeve plackets in this version too. I always like to learn new tricks and alternatives, which makes this route a fun one. If you’ve already made the regular Archer a few times, the popover version is a fun way to change things up.

Friedlander Lawn Archer Popover . Carolyn Friedlander

Friedlander Lawn Archer Popover . Carolyn Friedlander

One thing to note about the pieces in the Friedlander Lawn group is that there are no color-palette repeats with the quilting cotton group. I’m not one for redundancy, and so if the same designs will be used on a different substrate, I see that as an opportunity to explore more color options. And I did.

Friedlander Lawn Archer Popover . Carolyn Friedlander

Like I said, button-ups and lawn go hand-in-hand, so this Archer hasn’t been (and won’t be) the only button-up so far. I also tried out a new pattern by Named, their Helmi Trench Blouse. (Take note that this pattern also features a dress option. I’m totally into that too and plan to make one soon!)

Friedlander Lawn Helmi . Carolyn Friedlander

The detailing on this button-up is really interesting and what made me want to make it. There are front and back flaps reminiscent of a trench coat.

Friedlander Lawn Helmi . Carolyn Friedlander

Plus there is a rounded collar that is very adorable.

Friedlander Lawn Helmi . Carolyn Friedlander

There is also a gathered sleeve cuff, although I decided against that and instead went with a regular buttoned cuff and placket. Actually, I used the placket and cuff pieces from the Archer Popover, but narrowed the cuff because it felt like a more appropriate proportion for this style blouse. The split hem is also a nice touch.

Friedlander Lawn Helmi . Carolyn Friedlander

I wasn’t sure how the fit would work out, but it’s perfect for me without many adjustments. This was surprising, because the standard Named fit is for someone quite a bit taller than I am. I’m about 5’4″ and the only adjustment I made was to shorten the sleeves just a bit, which had to be done anyway with the changes I made to the cuff. I made no changes to the overall length or width otherwise.

Friedlander Lawn Helmi . Carolyn Friedlander

Next up is another button-up, yes, I’m really into lawn button-ups, it’s just too good of a fit for both the fabric and what I like wearing on a daily basis. This time it’s the Alder Shirtdress, another Grainline favorite.

Friedlander Lawn Alder Shirtdress . Carolyn Friedlander

A sleeveless shirtdress is a personal favorite because of how versatile it is. I’ve already worn this as-is, layered with tights and a sweater, over jeans and with a cardigan. Sweet stuff.

Friedlander Lawn Alder Shirtdress . Carolyn Friedlander

The only thing that I kick myself about is that I didn’t add side pockets. Note to self: on ALL future versions, there will be side pockets.

Friedlander Lawn Alder Shirtdress . Carolyn Friedlander

This print in the collection reminds me of old shirtings, which is why I was quick to make a shirt with it.

Friedlander Lawn Alder Shirtdress . Carolyn Friedlander

When I audition buttons, I always try out these gingham ones first. A friend gave me a bag of them in assorted colors, and I love when they work so well with a project.

The Ruffle-Front Blouse (from Happy Homemade: Sew Chic by Yoshiko Tsukiori) is one I’ve made before and wear often. My previous version was made out of quilting cotton, which wears well, but I knew a lawn version could be even better.

Friedlander Lawn Ruffle-Front Blouse . Carolyn Friedlander

By the way, this book is one of the Japanese sewing books that has been translated into English. If you’re wanting to dive into some Japanese sewing, a translated option is a great place to start.

Friedlander Lawn Ruffle-Front Blouse . Carolyn Friedlander

Friedlander Lawn Ruffle-Front Blouse . Carolyn Friedlander

From another Japanese sewing book–Check & Stripe, title otherwise unknown because this one isn’t translated into English (heads up!)–is this lovely dress that I’d been eyeing ever since getting the book. (It’s the project featured on the cover.)

Friedlander Lawn Check and Stripe Dress . Carolyn Friedlander

The detailing is so pretty between the rounded and split collar and then the pleated sleeve cuffs.

Friedlander Lawn Check and Stripe Dress . Carolyn Friedlander

Friedlander Lawn Check and Stripe Dress . Carolyn Friedlander

Plus, it does have pockets. Yay for that.

Friedlander Lawn Check and Stripe Dress . Carolyn Friedlander

Have you heard of Peppermint Magazine? I hadn’t until seeing someone post a finished garment from their free pattern collection. It turns out that Peppermint is a really thoughtful and well-done magazine out of Australia that conveniently (and generously) releases a free garment pattern with each issue. Win win. I have several of the patterns on my to-make list, but here’s the Peplum Top from Issue 31.

Friedlander Lawn Peplum Top . Carolyn Friedlander

Friedlander Lawn Peplum Top . Carolyn Friedlander

There’s a little spot at the shoulder where you can slip in a bit of another print, which I did.

Friedlander Lawn Peplum Top . Carolyn Friedlander

Alteration-wise, I did reduce some of the ruffle by not cutting the strip as long as it suggests. If I remember correctly, I think I made it short enough to work with the width of fabric, because that seemed like enough for me and an efficient way to cut it. In future versions, I’d add a little more length to the bodice as this one hits me just a smidge higher than I like. Easy future fix.

Friedlander Lawn Peplum Top . Carolyn Friedlander

There’s also Sointu Kimono Tee by Named. This pattern is intended for a knit, which I didn’t realize until I was about to make it. (Ha!) While a knit would be nice, I figured lawn would probably work pretty well too. I didn’t have to make any adjustments, because there was enough ease built-in to work with using a woven. (On a side note, if you’d like to read up on swapping out wovens for knits, Christine Haynes wrote a great article for Seamwork, here.)

Friedlander Lawn Sointu top . Carolyn Friedlander

Because I was using a woven instead of a knit I cut the sleeves on the bias to give them a little more softness and movement.

Friedlander Lawn Sointu top . Carolyn Friedlander

Friedlander Lawn Sointu top . Carolyn Friedlander

I think it also works without the belt.

Friedlander Lawn Sointu top . Carolyn Friedlander

Gotta love the versatility.

Friedlander Lawn Sointu top . Carolyn Friedlander

Ok, last up is a little tunic that I made for my niece. I have lots of kid stuff planned–including some button-ups for my nephews, but the Ryka tunic by Whitney Deal was too easy and cute to throw together. I need to get a picture of her in it!

Friedlander Lawn Ryka tunic . Carolyn Friedlander

Thanks for following along with me! I hope that you’re having fun with the lawn too!

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Seabrook bags in Euclid.

It seems like I’ve been seeing good backpacks and bucket bags everywhere this year. Or maybe it’s just that since they’ve been on my mind, I’ve been noticing them more and more. There’s nothing more handy or comfortable than a bag that you can throw over your shoulders and not have to worry about. That, plus the squishy, collapsable-ness makes a bucket bag seem so effortless and useful. When planning out projects for euclid, I knew a good bucket bag needed to be on the list. After reviewing a couple of good options, I decided to move forward with some Seabrook bags in Euclid from Seamwork magazine.

Seabrook Bags in Euclid . Carolyn Friedlander

An interesting thing about all Seamwork patterns is that you can make them in 3 hours or less…so I couldn’t stop with making just one.

First up is euclid and gingham.

Seabrook Bags in Euclid . Carolyn Friedlander

Like I mentioned in my Landgate post, many of my euclid projects had me hunting for cording, grommets and other little details, and these Seabrook bags are no different. I really like how the details can dress up a fairly simple project.

Seabrook Bags in Euclid . Carolyn Friedlander

The cording on this one is some parachute cording that I found at a big box store. Apparently making bracelets with this stuff is all the rage, which is good news, because it also makes for excellent cording. And, thanks to its popularity in other applications, it is available in many different colors and patterns. The blue that I used here adds a nice pop of color.

Seabrook Bags in Euclid . Carolyn Friedlander

I also added some lace trim between the top and bottom panels.

Seabrook Bags in Euclid . Carolyn Friedlander

Next up is a version with 2 different pieces from euclid on the outside and some carkai on the inside.

Seabrook Bags in Euclid . Carolyn Friedlander

Because euclid has a little bit more heft, it’s quite fitting for this project. In neither of these versions did I add any extra interfacing, it’s just the fabric, which is sturdy but still nicely collapsable.

Seabrook Bags in Euclid . Carolyn Friedlander

I really liked the idea of incorporating another piece of trim between the top and bottom panels on the exterior. Here I used this great greenish/gold lace from my stash.

Seabrook Bags in Euclid . Carolyn Friedlander

The cording on this bag is actual cording…like cording from the home dec/upholstery section. Normally you’d cover this stuff with fabric and add to a pillow or something, but I think it also works well on it’s own. It’s nice and plain and simple.

Seabrook Bags in Euclid . Carolyn Friedlander

Seabrook Bags in Euclid . Carolyn Friedlander

Seabrook Bags in Euclid . Carolyn Friedlander

Seabrook Bags in Euclid . Carolyn Friedlander

So yeah, these bags were a lot of fun to make. They make great gifts too, and I’ve already given these two away…which means, I’m ready to make another to keep for myself!

Pattern : Seabrook Bag by Seamwork Magazine

Fabrics : Euclid, Carolina Gingham (by Robert Kaufman), Carkai

euclid seabrook bags_19_carolyn friedlander_web

(Photos by Alexis Wharem of Greenprint Photography.)

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Euclid Landgate.

Earlier this year, Fancy Tiger Crafts did a Coat Sew-Along on their blog, which was all kinds of fun and very enticing to watch, especially because one of the featured participants, Sara, was making the Landgate by Merchant and Mills. The Landgate had already caught my attention after seeing it and other lovely jackets like it on pinterest. The shape, style and function seemed right up my alley. That spacious and cozy hood plus the drawstring and double pockets (yes, you can have patch and in seam pockets! win win.) were all speaking to me. With Euclid coming out, a Euclid Landgate was an easy add to the project wish list.

Euclid Landgate . Carolyn Friedlander

There were many helpful things that I gleaned from the Fancy Tiger sew-along prior to making my own. First, was the mention that some of the printed versions of the pattern (aka the one I was working from) was missing piece #11. Luckily I wasn’t scratching my head too long about it, because Sara gave me the heads up in the first post here. No worries if you’re missing this piece, you can email Merchant and Mills and they will send via email what you need.

Euclid Landgate . Carolyn Friedlander

Next up was the sizing–this was a big question mark for me. The pattern is unisex, and according to the size charts on the back, even the XS was going to be quite roomy on me. This isn’t a huge deal, because I like for this type of coat to be spacious enough to wear layers underneath, but I didn’t want to be completely swallowed in a mass of fabric. It was nice being able to see how the sizing worked out in the sew-along, Sara ended up adding side gussets to provide the right fit at the hip. For mine, I didn’t do that, but did end up taking in the side and sleeve seams as well as shortening the overall length and the length of the sleeves by a few inches…but I’m short, so this is a common adaptation for me.

Euclid Landgate . Carolyn Friedlander

It was also nice to be able to see some finished versions of the Landgate in a few different places. Prior to the sew-along, it was a bit of an elusive project to find, mostly because I think it was a relatively new release. Here are some good versions that I found helpful to see.

+ Sara’s finished version and blog post here.

+ Another Fancy Tiger participant in this post here–scroll down to see her version with its great modifications or look here on instagram.

+ And then the Landgate hashtag on instagram. You have to scroll around a little bit, but there are definitely some good versions to peruse.

After all of that, I had a much better idea of what to expect when making mine. I knew I needed to gather some supplies–like cording, a zipper, some grommets and snaps–all of which are details that make this project look so polished and interesting. Plus, I needed to figure out the fabric of course.

Euclid Landgate . Carolyn Friedlander

You have no idea how many grommets, snaps and cording options I collected prior to making this jacket. To be fair, many of the projects in the Euclid Lookbook required similar items, and so I had my eye out for such things for a while. You’ll notice that when photographed, there are no snaps on the front pockets. Yes, I was scared. It wasn’t that I didn’t have TONS of snaps to use, because I actually did, it’s just that I couldn’t get any of them to work when doing a trial run. I did end up adding some later. These by Dritz are what I could get to work, and you need this tool to make them work. And yes, it’s a nail biter all they way to the finish. Oh, but definitely check out this Noodlehead tutorial for installation. I had it on speed dial.

Euclid Landgate . Carolyn Friedlander

Grommets were another challenge. I found some that came in great colors, but I could not get them to work. In the end, it was this kind by Dritz with the tool included that seemed to be most successful.

As for cording, I had many options but made my own from a piece of Euclid. It seemed like the right fit, and Seamwork has a great tutorial for making your own as well as installing grommets here.

Euclid Landgate . Carolyn Friedlander

The zipper was one I had on hand from Zipit. There was nothing too crazy about the install. Everything came together pretty easily, and in fact, I found the construction of the zipper guard, yoke and hood to be very smart. Everything came together nicely and finished well.

Euclid Landgate . Carolyn Friedlander

You’ll notice I used a splash of carkai in the zipper guard and hood facing. I like the added color and interest.

I really enjoyed the planning and research for this project, it’s engaging construction and the added challenge and intrigue of the detailing. Now that it’s finished, I’m eager to wear it when the weather is right.

Euclid Landgate . Carolyn Friedlander

Pattern : The Landgate by Merchant and Mills

Fabrics : Euclid and a splash of Carkai

Notions : Grommets, Zipper, Snaps (not shown but added later), custom Euclid cording (tutorial here)

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